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Plans are unfolding for circling Lake Superior

March winds have been blowing and my mind has turned toward my circle tour this summer.  My little motorhome, Ecovision, is waiting patiently in storage about six miles away as I plan our 2012 travels.  The photograph above is from the very first morning after I bought her and I am remembering with such fondness how I came to own her.

I bought her on eBay then rented a one-way car from Michigan to Vermont to pick her up.  I had never owned nor driven a motorhome, nor was I experienced at mountain driving, but this didn’t deter me.  The owners spent a couple hours with me on a Sunday morning teaching me how everything works (and yes, you are right, pretty much in one ear and out the other).  It was trial by fire as I bounced along winding roads for many hours getting used to new noises and sensations on my way home.

It was late October in 2009 and there was only one campground left open in New York between me and my home in Michigan.  I arrived after dark just before the campground closed for the night.  I didn’t back in because I didn’t know what I was doing.  There were only three motorhomes in the entire campground and I asked one RVer to help me plug her in.  That night I nearly froze because, as I later learned, the temperature went down to 22 degrees and a heat pump is only good to 40.  Brrr.  So I slept in all my clothes in a down sleeping bag with even my hat and coat on until the sun came up.  But you know, when I finally got up and walked outside, it was worth everything–the entire purchase price, the hour after hour of driving, the shivering much of the night–for just that very first morning.  There was steam rising from a slow-moving river sparkling in early morning magic light.  The only sound was the gurgle of water and crinkle of golden leaves.  It smelled gloriously of freshly oxygenated air.  It truly does not get better than this.  Everything ever since has just been a bonus.

Since then I’ve upgraded Ecovision to nearly new condition, taken various multi-day RV courses, driven to rallies and conferences, and gotten some miles under my belt.  She’s a 1999 American Cruiser and about 21 feet long.  She’s tiny compared to many of my friends’ RVs, but I love her.  She has a little kitchen, an even smaller bathroom, a couch that I sleep on, and a two-person dinette.   She gets about 14 miles per gallon and is easy to drive and park.  She’s just about right.  My dog, Henry, loves to travel in her so much that just saying the word RV sends him to the front door in a tizzy.  We have fun.  He rides snugged in a harness attached to the seat belt in the chair next to me and usually sleeps there, too.  I’m going to have a few more things done next month to get her ready for the travel season then we’ll be good to go.  Can hardly wait!

I plan to leave in early August.  In the meantime I will be fleshing out the resource pages here and share various plans of where I’ll stay and who I’ll be interviewing.  So stay tuned, and as readership grows I am looking forward to learning of special places and people that readers think that I shouldn’t miss.

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Rescheduled Lake Superior Circle Tour to 2012

Between the mountains of boxes needing to be unpacked from my recent move to Ann Arbor and my need for more experience with my motorhome, I decided to postpone my planned August 2011 circling of Lake Superior until 2012.  Disappointing, but the right decision.

However, Henry Boy and I did spend a week in Grand Marais, Michigan, on the shores of this magnificent Great Lake.  Grand Marais is a small town right where M-77 ends at Lake Superior.  It’s a beautiful drive into town with the lovely natural harbor to the right and shops to the left.

We stayed in Burt Township’s Woodland Park Campground, which is a short four-block walk to Grand Marais and sits up high on a lakeshore bluff.  Every campsite was reserved every day and it was quite crowded, but Henry and I got in long walks every day.  Sometimes we walked to the lake, sometimes to town, and sometimes just around the campground.

Henry is such a terrific traveler and loves every human he meets.  He especially is drawn to children, wagging his tail as soon as he spots them.  But he’s not crazy about other dogs if he senses any aggression or imbalance.  I’ve been working on this, but he was viciously attacked when he was 14 months old by a pitbull-type dog who broke through a gate and went straight for the jugular.  This led to emergency surgery to repair his torn neck plus a second surgery a week later.  Henry makes friends with some dogs immediately, but others he wants to go after.  As I said, even though he just turned four we are still working on this because were both traumatized by the attack.

For the first couple of days Lake Superior was the calmest I have ever seen it.  Most days it was like glass.

The sunset views from Woodland Park Campground were outstanding with many people and dogs gathering to witness the sun sinking into the lake each evening.

Two of my RV friends were also there.  Rachel has a 29-foot motorhome and travels with her gorgeous green-eyed black cat, Buddy.  Buddy walks on a leash as well as Henry, and has a netted enclosure for outside the motorhome.  Mickey has a 30-foot fifth-wheel and travels with several fun dogs of various sizes.  The three of us usually enjoyed one meal a day at the iconic West Bay Diner.  The owners are Eric and Ellen Airgood.  Eric is the chef and Ellen waits tables.  It’s a popular place and the wait is long, but the food is well worth it.  They also sell delicious baked goods including homemade pies, huge brownies, bread, and sticky buns.  As you walk in there are new and used books for sale, and shelves inside hold various jams and syrups.

A special aspect of the diner is that Ellen Airgood has just published her first novel, South of Superior.  I’m a fussy reader of fiction so wasn’t sure I would like it although it has met with critical acclaim.  The good news is that I loved the novel and hope for a sequel.  I bought a copy at the diner and read it in a couple days, and Ellen graciously signed it before I headed home.

With the dry hot weather, Henry kept getting dusty.  This meant I had to brush him out each time I let him back int0 the motorhome.  Rachel suggested I look for a rug at the local hardware store and I’ll be darned if I didn’t find the perfect rug for Henry!  It folds up small to fit in my RV’s storage compartment and was only $19.99 (most RV rugs are $70 and up and too big to store in my small rig).  A bonus is that the rug is a pretty with a bright blue and yellow striped design.  Henry loved it immediately and settled onto it like he had had it since puppyhood.  He looks quite handsome on blue, don’t you think?  If you check the photo carefully you can see Ellen’s novel on the picnic table.

After the first few calm, hot days, the weather cooled and the lake kicked up small white caps.  It just could not have been better.  Rachel was able to move to a lakefront site and invited us to enjoy the views and share a bottle of wine.  The life of Riley.  I ached to stay and even drive along the lakeshore to places like Whitefish Point Bird Observatory north of Paradise, Michigan, but I had commitments at home.

The day I was to head home a huge windstorm came through so I waited a day for it to pass.  There was no way a motorhome was going to get across the Mackinac Bridge with that wind, nor would driving be anything but stressful.  But the wind settled down the next morning and Henry and I headed home on a perfectly glorious day.  On the way north we had stopped for one night at the lovely, quiet Hartwick Pines State Park, but I decided to get home in one day so drove the 400 miles straight through.

I’ve decided to spend this fall and winter reading more about Lake Superior and contacting people I want to meet and interview next year.  For now I guess it’s good to get settled more into my new home so that when I leave next year the pile of boxes is bearable or even gone.  I do plan to update this blog as I discover interesting things about the lake, so please do stay tuned.

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Top Five Great Lakes beaches named by “Dr. Beach”

I was pleased to read the article by John Flesher (AP) naming “Dr. Beach’s” top five Great Lakes beaches.  The list comes from an analysis by Stephen Leatherman of Florida International University, who is also known as “Dr. Beach”.

Doctor Beach at the beach :-)

Leatherman looks at 50 beach-quality factors.  Flesher reports that Dr. Beach’s criteria focuses on water quality, sand quality and safety, with cleanliness a must.

Here are Dr. Beach’s picks for the Great Lakes (you can read Leatherman’s write-up here and about him here):

  1. Lake Michigan’s dunes of Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore (Empire, MI)
  2. Lake Erie’s Presque Isle State Park (PA)
  3. Lake Superior’s Sand Point Beach at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (Munising, MI)
  4. Lake Huron’s Bayfield Main Beach (Ontario, CA)
  5. Lake Michigan’s Oak Street Beach (Chicago, IL)

Honorable mentions were given to Lake Michigan’s North Beach (Racine, WI) and Grand Haven State Park (Grand Haven, MI).

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July 17, 2011, is Lake Superior Day

Source

Time to get ready to celebrate the wonders of Lake Superior on July 17.  I just read in a Lake Superior Magazine article that Lake Superior is the only Great Lake with its own day.  It seems that Lake Superior Day was started by people in Thunder Bay (Ontario) in the 1990s and “revived” by others in Superior (Wisconsin) gave it new life a few years ago. Hmm, sounds like our other lakes need to get busy.

This year the Lake Superior Binational Forum–a 24-member group from U.S. and Canada–is celebrating it’s 20th year.  They’ve teamed up the U.S. EPA and Environment Canada on a Lake Superior placemat that you can find in some restaurants on Lake Superior Day.  Click here for ideas from the Forum on how to celebrate Lake Superior Day.  You can even download a free poster and fun things for kids to do.

Activities are planned in Terrace Bay, Thunder Bay, Ashland, Duluth, various shoreline Minnesota State Parks, and Michigan State University Extension in Alger, County.

Lake Superior Magazine will have updates of activities.  You can check online, or even better subscribe to this fantastic magazine like I did a few years ago [call toll-free 888-BIG LAKE (888-244-5253) or sign up online].  Following on Twitter is another option: @lakesuperiormag.

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Growing this blog

Inspired by my recent writing retreat with novelist Jane Hoppe in South Haven, today I added the 2012 Lake Michigan page.  Jane will be doing a book signing at the South Haven Memorial Library this year so stay tuned for that.   My own Great Lakes books are developing nicely.

Henry Boy

Jane and I both have extra-large, tri-color male Cavalier King Charles Spaniels that we adore.  Our Cavaliers may be one reason she and I stayed in touch after meeting during the metaphor workshop taught by the terrific Marc Nieson at the 2009 Iowa Summer Writing Festival.

My Henry Boy is jealous because Jane’s Charlie has his own blog!  Hmmm.  I keep telling Henry no he cannot have his own blog, but he does get to circle the lakes with me in our motorhome, Ecovision!  Yet even the special peanut-butter dog cookies I brought back from Decadent Dogs haven’t seemed to appease Henry’s desire for a blog of his own.  Darn.  Henry did get a mention on Charlie’s blog and Henry commented.  I am hoping that will do.