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About to begin the big adventure!

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After a couple years of planning, I leave in a couple days to circle Lake Superior! I’ve been loading up my motorhome, Ecovision, and gathering my clothes and food. I’m also dealing with the first cold I’ve had in a couple years so will leave when that’s on the mend.

Today I’m organizing my Great Lakes islands research and writing materials and maps. I hope to interview as many people as possible as I circle so I just printed out consent forms. I want to talk to people involved in various ways with the islands and to get to as many islands as possible. After getting trained in Garageband at the Apple Store, I’ll record the interviews digitally using a “Snowball” microphone connected to my laptop.

I’ll travel clockwise and will take about three weeks. My dog, Henry, will be thrilled to be in our RV for such a long trip. I plan to blog and tweet as often as possible. Yet once I hit Ontario and the north shore of Lake Superior, much of the drive is through isolated–and stunningly beautiful!–areas where wifi will be spotty. So stay tuned!

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Upper Peninsula Authors Book Tour

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Ellen Airgood–author of the novel, South of Superior, and the newly released young-adult novel, Prairie Evers–posted a link to the UP Book Tour 2012 on her Facebook page.  I would love to get to at least a couple of the authors’ talks during my August circling of Lake Superior, but they take place in June and July.  Darn.  In case you are interested, here’s the UP Book Tour 2012 calendar.

I loved Ellen’s South of Superior and plan to buy Prairie Evers for my granddaughter, Ella.  I follow Ellen’s blog, too.  One of my RV friend, Rachel Brett Harley, introduced me to Ellen, Ellen’s West Bay Diner, and South of Superior last year when we caravanned in our motorhomes to Grand Marais, Michigan.  All treasures.
Grand Marais is a sweet little town on the south shore of Lake Superior at the end of M-77.  We stayed in the lakeside Woodland Park Campground operated by the county.  The town is just a few blocks away so just about everyday we enjoyed at least one meal at the diner.  I bought the novel from Ellen, who graciously signed it, and enjoyed reading it at my campsite.  Months later, Rachel and I went to Ellen’s book signing in Ann Arbor at Nicola’s Bookstore.

If you want to visit Grand Marais, check out this page of nearby awesome attractions like Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore with Grand Sable Dunes.  My first backpacking trip was to Pictured Rocks many years ago on the first weekend in May.  My then stepdaughter, Katie, two others, and I hiked in and set up base camp at Mosquito campground (click here for map PDF).  Fortunately it was too early for mosquitoes.  The weather was actually quite strange.  We were prepared for cold weather so were shocked when the  temperature reached 80.

It was a gorgeous place to camp with a small cold stream, spring wildflowers and wild leeks, and, of course, the big lake stretched out in front of us.  Katie threw a snowball while dressed in shorts, and every day she bravely dove in (and right out of) the cold blue lake.  Brrr.  At night in the campground we could hear loud splashes as massive chunks of ice fell off the sides of the pictured rocks.  I imagined that must be what the calving of glaciers in Alaska sounds like.

Chapel Falls

One day we hiked to Chapel Falls taking a lunch of apples, peanut butter, and pita bread.  While sitting in the wilderness by the falls enjoying our lunch, the beauty and silence was shattered by a jet ski.  The jet skiers had come from Munising, took one look at the falls, and back they went.  Wow.  We all felt a little sick about the intrusion by folks there to just check “Chapel Falls” off a list rather than really experiencing the beauty and holiness of the falls and surrounding nature.  And, of course, I couldn’t help but think of the petroleum pollutants spewing out of the jet ski in addition to the noise pollution.

Here’s an official link to backpacking at Pictured Rocks and here’s an article in Backpacker Magazine from May 2010.  Hope you get to enjoy this gorgeous area!  And on foot!

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Rescheduled Lake Superior Circle Tour to 2012

Between the mountains of boxes needing to be unpacked from my recent move to Ann Arbor and my need for more experience with my motorhome, I decided to postpone my planned August 2011 circling of Lake Superior until 2012.  Disappointing, but the right decision.

However, Henry Boy and I did spend a week in Grand Marais, Michigan, on the shores of this magnificent Great Lake.  Grand Marais is a small town right where M-77 ends at Lake Superior.  It’s a beautiful drive into town with the lovely natural harbor to the right and shops to the left.

We stayed in Burt Township’s Woodland Park Campground, which is a short four-block walk to Grand Marais and sits up high on a lakeshore bluff.  Every campsite was reserved every day and it was quite crowded, but Henry and I got in long walks every day.  Sometimes we walked to the lake, sometimes to town, and sometimes just around the campground.

Henry is such a terrific traveler and loves every human he meets.  He especially is drawn to children, wagging his tail as soon as he spots them.  But he’s not crazy about other dogs if he senses any aggression or imbalance.  I’ve been working on this, but he was viciously attacked when he was 14 months old by a pitbull-type dog who broke through a gate and went straight for the jugular.  This led to emergency surgery to repair his torn neck plus a second surgery a week later.  Henry makes friends with some dogs immediately, but others he wants to go after.  As I said, even though he just turned four we are still working on this because were both traumatized by the attack.

For the first couple of days Lake Superior was the calmest I have ever seen it.  Most days it was like glass.

The sunset views from Woodland Park Campground were outstanding with many people and dogs gathering to witness the sun sinking into the lake each evening.

Two of my RV friends were also there.  Rachel has a 29-foot motorhome and travels with her gorgeous green-eyed black cat, Buddy.  Buddy walks on a leash as well as Henry, and has a netted enclosure for outside the motorhome.  Mickey has a 30-foot fifth-wheel and travels with several fun dogs of various sizes.  The three of us usually enjoyed one meal a day at the iconic West Bay Diner.  The owners are Eric and Ellen Airgood.  Eric is the chef and Ellen waits tables.  It’s a popular place and the wait is long, but the food is well worth it.  They also sell delicious baked goods including homemade pies, huge brownies, bread, and sticky buns.  As you walk in there are new and used books for sale, and shelves inside hold various jams and syrups.

A special aspect of the diner is that Ellen Airgood has just published her first novel, South of Superior.  I’m a fussy reader of fiction so wasn’t sure I would like it although it has met with critical acclaim.  The good news is that I loved the novel and hope for a sequel.  I bought a copy at the diner and read it in a couple days, and Ellen graciously signed it before I headed home.

With the dry hot weather, Henry kept getting dusty.  This meant I had to brush him out each time I let him back int0 the motorhome.  Rachel suggested I look for a rug at the local hardware store and I’ll be darned if I didn’t find the perfect rug for Henry!  It folds up small to fit in my RV’s storage compartment and was only $19.99 (most RV rugs are $70 and up and too big to store in my small rig).  A bonus is that the rug is a pretty with a bright blue and yellow striped design.  Henry loved it immediately and settled onto it like he had had it since puppyhood.  He looks quite handsome on blue, don’t you think?  If you check the photo carefully you can see Ellen’s novel on the picnic table.

After the first few calm, hot days, the weather cooled and the lake kicked up small white caps.  It just could not have been better.  Rachel was able to move to a lakefront site and invited us to enjoy the views and share a bottle of wine.  The life of Riley.  I ached to stay and even drive along the lakeshore to places like Whitefish Point Bird Observatory north of Paradise, Michigan, but I had commitments at home.

The day I was to head home a huge windstorm came through so I waited a day for it to pass.  There was no way a motorhome was going to get across the Mackinac Bridge with that wind, nor would driving be anything but stressful.  But the wind settled down the next morning and Henry and I headed home on a perfectly glorious day.  On the way north we had stopped for one night at the lovely, quiet Hartwick Pines State Park, but I decided to get home in one day so drove the 400 miles straight through.

I’ve decided to spend this fall and winter reading more about Lake Superior and contacting people I want to meet and interview next year.  For now I guess it’s good to get settled more into my new home so that when I leave next year the pile of boxes is bearable or even gone.  I do plan to update this blog as I discover interesting things about the lake, so please do stay tuned.

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July 17, 2011, is Lake Superior Day

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Time to get ready to celebrate the wonders of Lake Superior on July 17.  I just read in a Lake Superior Magazine article that Lake Superior is the only Great Lake with its own day.  It seems that Lake Superior Day was started by people in Thunder Bay (Ontario) in the 1990s and “revived” by others in Superior (Wisconsin) gave it new life a few years ago. Hmm, sounds like our other lakes need to get busy.

This year the Lake Superior Binational Forum–a 24-member group from U.S. and Canada–is celebrating it’s 20th year.  They’ve teamed up the U.S. EPA and Environment Canada on a Lake Superior placemat that you can find in some restaurants on Lake Superior Day.  Click here for ideas from the Forum on how to celebrate Lake Superior Day.  You can even download a free poster and fun things for kids to do.

Activities are planned in Terrace Bay, Thunder Bay, Ashland, Duluth, various shoreline Minnesota State Parks, and Michigan State University Extension in Alger, County.

Lake Superior Magazine will have updates of activities.  You can check online, or even better subscribe to this fantastic magazine like I did a few years ago [call toll-free 888-BIG LAKE (888-244-5253) or sign up online].  Following on Twitter is another option: @lakesuperiormag.

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Circling the lakes to begin August 2011

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Plans are underway for August launch of my first circling of the lakes.  My dog, Henry, and I will head north to Lake Superior in my motorhome the RV/Ecovision come August 1st.  I will be interviewing people, taking photographs, writing, hiking, and blogging as we travel slowly around the lake.  After a long career in Great Lakes policy and conservation, it is now time to for me to deeply experience the lakes that I love.  I look forward to meeting new people and exploring new places along the coasts and islands of this magnificent lake.  I’ll be using the information of the Lake Superior Circle Tour and taking copies of the beautiful Lake Superior Magazine.  So please stay tuned!