Category Archives: Lake Superior

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Big Bay on the Big Lake

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It was actually another backwards day.  I headed back east from Ispheming to first go to the Marquette Verizon store to try to set up a 4G Samsung Mifi so I can travel with my own wireless hotspot.  It took two hours, but patience turned to success (and the Mifi enabled me  to update my Grand Island posting from a few days ago with a photo and map this evening so check it out).

Once the Mifi was operational, Henry and I drove to the north side of Marquette to eat lunch sitting in Ecovision while parked at a marina.

The marina is in the shadow of enormous Presque Isle Power Plant built by Cleveland-Cliffs Iron Company.  I learned that this one facility powers 90 percent of the Upper Peninsula’s electricity and 12 percent of Wisconsin’s.  I wish I had photographed the gigantic pile of coal.

After lunch we headed north to the town of Big Bay.  The drive takes about a 45 minutes from Marquette with some of the road shoulder-less and rolling.  Probably not that noticeable when driving an automobile, but it kept me on my toes driving my RV.

Big Bay is the town where many scenes in the book and movie The Anatomy of a Murder took place.  There is a Community Presbyterian Church across the street from St. Mary Church below.

St. Mary Church in Big Bay, Michigan

Big Bay was having a Farmers Market and I bought cherry tomatoes and a huge blueberry muffin.  I also bought a Powell Township tshirt with the proceeds going toward parks and recreation.  I even met the artist.

In contrast to the gray and rainy day on Grand Island, as you can see today was clear blue sky and bright sun.  In fact, I only saw one small puff of a cloud all afternoon.

From the town of Big Bay, I wanted to get to the Big Bay Lighthouse.  I remembered how stunning Lake Superior was below the cliff the lighthouse rests on.  The 100-year old lighthouse has been a bed and breakfast, although I’m not sure of its current status because when I was there two years ago it was for sale.

Big Bay Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast

It showed signs of neglect, and the land has been subdivided into lots according to a drawing on a large for-sale sign.  Ah, progress.

But for me the main event was, of course, the Big Lake Superior!  I only snapped a few photos because it seemed like there was a private event breaking up.

View of the long horizon of Lake Superior from Big Bay Lighthouse cliff.

Henry and I then headed back south to Marquette then turned west to Ispheming.  I hooked the water and electric back up and even pulled out Henry’s rug and my chair.  We both ate out there then I read Wild Shore—Greg Breining‘s book about kayaking around Lake Superior–while Henry dozed.

Then I put things away and Henry and I walked around the campground until the chill in the air chased me inside.

 

Tomorrow: Copper Harbor!

 

Henry Boy loves his striped rug.

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The big lake

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Love peek-a-boo looks at the world’s largest lake at the end of a sandy path. Invites the imagination to soar with memories of dipping one’s toes in the lake’s crisp, frothy waves.

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Grand Island sandstone cliffs

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Sandstone cliffs on a gray day; Miners Castle in distance to left

Lake Superior‘s Grand Island is nearly 14,000 acres of mixed coniferous-deciduous forest.  Once I have strong Internet service, I will have much to share of my learnings and photographs during a three-hour tour today. I left my rig and Henry in the campground and took a county Altran bus to the ferry dock. The bus cost three dollars each way, an amazing bargain.  The ferry ride to Grand Island takes four minutes and is managed by the Grand Island Ferry Service.  The cost for ferry and three-hour bus tour is $22 with $2 discount with the National Parks and Recreational Lands Pass.

The vast majority of the island is in public ownership and is managed by the U.S.D.A. Forest Service as the Grand Island National Recreation Area. The island was in private ownership until 1990 so there are pockets of inholdings. Buildings from the 1800s still dot the landscape.

There are two lakes on the island and sandstone cliffs up to 300′ tall.  Echo Lake is the larger of the two lakes.  The shoreline is mostly the steep cliffs, but there are also some protected stretches of gorgeous sandy beaches. The trees are second or third growth having been stripped by Cleveland Cliffs in the 20th century and before that those along the shoreline by private landowners.

The island was settled by aboriginal and Euroamericans before the mainland. The island allowed easy viewing of ships, offered several more weeks of farming due to heat-sink effect of the surrounding waters, and other factors. There are fantastic backpacking opportunities for those willing to protect themselves from black bears, mosquitoes, black flies (my nemesis), and other biting flies.

I loved being on the island and spent nearly four hours there. And I’ll be back. It is becoming clear that this circle tour is really a scoping exercise and future visits are inevitable. I also know that I’ll be doing telephone interviews over the fall and winter. For this trip, I need to concentrate on learning as much as I can, getting the names of people I want to interview, taking photographs (over 500 this far!), and getting to as many islands as possible.

Tomorrow I head to Marquette and Big Bay then will stay in Ishpeming. After that my first visit to Copper Harbor and Fort Wilkins State Park. Much fun!

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Arrived in Munising and going to Grand Island tomorrow

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I arrived in Munising around noon and finally have wifi (although very slow and very spotty).  I will post a few times over the next day or two to catch up and to post photos.

Yesterday I had an unexpected and fantastic stay at Muskallonge Lake State Park.  It’s a perfect lake for kayaking and Lake Superior is right across the highway.  My campsite (#155) had a view of the inland lake and was spacious and private.  I’ll definitely return to this State Park and to the same campsite.  More on this later.

Muskallonge Lake

Tonight I’m on the hunt for another whitefish dinner.  It’s my favorite fish to eat and Lake Superior is where you’ll find the freshest.

Tomorrow I’ve arranged to leave Ecovision hooked up at Wandering Wheels Campgroundwith Henry safely inside.  I was concerned about leaving him in a parking lot for the three hours I’ll be on the island.  Thanks to campground staff, I was able to arrange for a local bus to come to the campground and for $3 it will take me to the Grand Island ferry dock west of Munising.  Amazing, eh?! This way I know Henry is cool and comfortable.  I’ll take a windbreaker, sweatshirt, hat, and most importantly my camera.

I’d also like to take a boat tour of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore before I head west to Marquette and Big Bay Friday.  About 20 years ago I backpacked to Three Mile Beach and hiked out to Chapel Falls (marvelous!), but have never taken the boat cruise.  Stay tuned!

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Heading north on Monday!

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My first morning with Ecovision was glorious. Since I’ve learned there is much pleasure balanced with much work to the RV lifestyle.

Amazingly this cold is just about gone after just 4 days so I’m in the midst of packing for nearly a month on the road.

When I first got my RV I was stunned to hear my friends say they needed a week to get their RV ready for the season. Well, this is my third summer with a RV and I now completely understand. I’ve been out already this summer so the basics like pots and pans, atlases, cleaning products, dinnerware, CB radio, and RV essentials like hoses and power cords are in place. Yet what needs to be added is still extensive: a couple weeks of clothing, food for up to 30 days, electronics, condiments, paper products, fresh sheets and towels, my dog Henry’s food and supplies, medical kit, bug juice, sunscreen, toiletries, etc. You get the idea. With a RV you are truly taking your home with you on the road. It’s an amazing amount of work.

I’ve made progress, but I’m glad I have another day. I cook and freeze meals ahead plus my friend Rachel introduced me to these yummy canned meals from France. I take cans of chicken, tuna, and roast beef plus load the refrigerator with fresh organic vegetables and fruits and condiments. I replenish the fresh food along the way looking for roadside stands, farmers markets, and food co-ops. I always have lots of peanut butter and a big jug of water in a special BPA-free container with a spigot that sits in my sink as I travel. I use this water for cooking, drinking, and filling Henry’s water bowl.

All of these things need to be loaded plus all the clothing and things like laundry detergent and a gad-zillion books about Lake Superior and her islands. Yes, I have a Kindle, but few of my collection of books collected over the last 25 years are available as ebooks. Sigh. As you can see, it is a huge task to get a RV on the road. This is made more challenging because I keep my motorhome six or seven miles south of my home so many trips back and forth are needed. But somehow it will all be done in time for Henry and me to head north Monday morning.

I’m hoping to get as close to Whitefish Point Bird Observatory as possible by late afternoon Monday.  Leaving a couple days later than I planned is pushing me to have a long first day. Weather should cooperate. That’s another thing I’ve learned about RVing: bad weather means staying put. Try driving a big box RV on a windy day or through driving rain and storms just once and you’ll not do it again.

I can hardly wait to smell and feel the north air! Is there anything better?! I may stop on either the south or north side of the bridge just to enjoy the Straits and the several lovely islands in that area. The Big Mac. What a bridge. Michiganders have called the Mackinac Bridge the Big Mac long before there was a hamburger with that name. I still remember going across the bridge for the first time as a child soon after it was built in the 1950s. Have loved it ever since.

North of the bridge it will be straight north although I do want to stop at Tahquamenonn Falls. But for now it is time to get back to packing enough clothes to keep me away from a laundromat a couple weeks. Perhaps until I reach Thunder Bay?